Jean-Paul & Benoit Droin Valmur, 2013, Chablis Grand Cru

Critic Review: 94/100 Tom Canavan

2013 Vintage Tasted: Jan 2016

(2016) Forty percent was made in oak (as is Vaudesir). Beautiful, serious white Burgundy nose, the flint is there, but there’s a toast and charming nutty character, and sweet, ripe orchard fruit. It’s aromatically like a serious 1er Cru Puligny perhaps, but then the palate brings that salty acidity swinging back through, cutting effortlessly through that clay-derived richness of texture and fruit. Such a juicy orange and peach tone beneath the acidity and the minerality, a hint of coffee smokiness adding and extra layer of intrigue. Fabulous.

When to drink: 2018 to 2032

Jean Paul & Benoît Droin is one of the oldest wine producers in Chablis with nearly 400 years of wine-growing history. The estate is well known for its spread of impressive vineyard land, including plots in five of the seven Chablis Grand Cru vineyards, the most important of which is Les Clos. The subsequent portfolio is based entirely on Chardonnay.

The domaine spans some 26 hectares (64 acres) of vineyards throughout four levels of appellation. Jean Paul & Benoît Droin produce from nine premier cru sites, including Montmains and Fourchaume. Grand cru sites include the Valmur and Vaudésir vineyards with the remaining portfolio falling under the Petit Chablis and standard Chablis appellations.

Chablis is known for its unique Kimmeridgian limestone soils that contribute to the mineral character of the wines. Most of Droin's top vineyards have this soil, giving typical oyster shell and wet stone characters to the wines, although the estate's Petit Chablis vineyards are comprised of less clay-dominant Portlandian soil, producing Chardonnay with more subtle and fruity characters.

In the winery both vats and oak barrels are sourced for the aging process of Chardonnay, depending on the terroir and vintage. Petit Chablis and Chablis are fermented and matured in tank whereas most of the premier and grand cru wines are partially aged in oak barrels, only a tiny percentage of which is new.